Tailor&#39;s square.



J. BAUERNPEIND.

TAILORS SQUARE.

APPLICATION FILED 11017.14, 1910.

Patented Aug. 1, 1911.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

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J. BAUERNPEIND.

TAILORS SQUARE.

APPLICATION FILED 11011.14, 1910.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

coLuMnlA PLANooRAPH.co.. WASHINGTON, D. cA

E NTTED STATES FATE EECE.

TAILORS SQUARE.

assess.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Aug. 1, 1911.

Application led. November 14, 1910. Serial No. 592,211.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JOHN BAUERNFEIND, a citizen of the United States,residing at Medford, county of Taylor, and State of Wisconsin, haveinvented certain new and useful Improvements in Tailors Squares, ofwhich the following is a specification.

My invention relates to the art of tailoring and particularly to animproved tailors square.

I have found that in laying out patterns, particularly for mens coatsand vests, that certain horizontal measurements bear certainproportional relations to each other and to the chest and waistmeasures, and that certain vertical measurements bear a fixed relationproportional to the combined chestmeasure and waist length measure. Allother measurements depend solely upon style.

The object of my invention is to provide an improved square by means ofwhich patterns may be drafted from which well fitting garments may bemade, after having taken the chest measure, the waste length measure andthe waist girth measure.

A further object of my invention is to provide a square for the purposementioned provided with a plurality of scales and symbols adjacent thescales, and a chart bearing corresponding symbols to designate whichscale or scales are to be used for certain measurements.

Other objects will appear hereinafter.

My invention will be more readily understood by reference to theaccompanying drawing forming a part of this specification and in which-Figure 1 is a plan view of one side of a tailors square embodying myinvention, Fig. 2 is a similar view of the reversed side, Fig. 3 is adetail view of one of the scales, and Eig. 4 is a plan view of thechart.

Referring now to the drawings l indicates the square comprising the legs2 and 3 at right angles to each other, the hypotenuse 4 and anintermediate cross member 5. The longer leg 2 is provided upon one facewith a scale dividing the same into inches and fractions of inches, suchas eighths, and if preferred sixteenths. The reversed side of the leg 2and both sides of the other leg and of the hypotenuse are provided withsundry scales the use of which will be explained hereinafter.

X indicates the chart laid out with a plurality of vertical, horizontaland diagonal lines bearing certain relations to each other to beobtained from the scales on the square and provided with numeroussymbols indicative of points on the lines and corresponding to similarsymbols on the several scales of the square whereby the proper scale maybe readily ascertained for locating the various lines and points on thepattern as it is laid out.

The method of drafting a pattern by use of the square will now bedescribed, as a better understanding of the square and the severalscales thereon may be obtained in this manner. First, the breastmeasure, the waist measure and the waist length measure of the personfor whom the garment is being made is taken. It will be assumed thatthese measurements are normal or for an average man in which case thebreast measure will be 88 inches, the waist 34 inches and the waistlength 179,- inches. Other measurements such as for the entire length ofthe garment, etc. may be taken, but as these relate only to the stylethey will not be considered or described fully in this specification.

The method of laying out the pattern will be best understood byreferring to Fig. 4. A vertical line AMB is drawn and from A ahorizontal or perpendicular line is drawn. From A, on the line A-B, apoint E is marked the distance of the waist length and from the point Ea horizontal or perpendicular line is drawn. This is the waist line. Thedistance from A to B is the full length of the garment and varies withthe style. The line A-B represents the center of the back, and to obtainthe proper curve for the back of the garment the center back seam isdetermined by marking a point on the waist line of an inch to the rightof the point E and another of an inch to the right of the point B andconnecting the point A with the point e on the waist line, and the lastsaid point with the point Z).

As in laying out a pattern, only one half of the back and one half ofthe front is drafted, the measurements are taken in terms of one half ofthe breast measure and one half of the waist measure while the fulllength of the waist lengt-h measure is used. In this instance one halfof the breast measure is 19 inches and one half of the waist measure is17 inches.

Points are now to be ascertained for locat ing the arm hole curve andside seam on the back7 and these are ascertained by Athe use of thesquare. The scale on the square marked Breast-A-D-waist length is usedand the point 19 on the breast end 7 is placed on the point A and thepoint D is marked on the line A-B at the scale division 1732- on thewaist length end 8. The distance from A to D is then divided into threeequal parts and horizontal or perpendicular lines are drawn from thepoints Aa, La and D. lVhere the perpendicular from D intersects the lineA-e point d is marked. From the point (l a perpendicular line is drawnfrom the line A--c and upon this is located a point 3 which is on theside seam curve to be presently located. One third of the waist lengthbelow the point E is located a point n and from this point a horizontalor perpendicnlar line is drawn.

The various points on the horizontal lines are now to be located. Thepoint AA is located by means of the scale marked A- AA on the vportion 5of the square, the zero point of the scale being placed on the point Aand the point AA marked at the graduation 19 (half the breast measure)of the scale. The point 1 is then determined by the scale marked AA-1 byplacing the zero mark of the scale on the point A and marking a point at19 on the scale on a line extended vertically from the point AA. Thescale Ca-F is now placed on the line extending from the point Aa withthe zero at a and the point F is marked at 19 on the scale. From thepoint F a perpendicular is dropped downwardly intersecting the line fromLa and the intersection of these lines determines the point One inchbelow the point f is placed a point ff and one fourth of an inch to theright of point ff is located a point One half of an inch to the right ofpoint F is located a point 2. The points 2, f and x are used todetermine the curve of the arm hole on the back. To get the proper widthof the back to the side seam, a point E@ is located on the lineextending from E at a distance from the point c equal to the line a-Fless one and one half inches. From the point thus ascertained aperpendicular is dropped to the line B and a curved line is extendedupwardly to the point an, the point 3 being at intersection of thiscurved line with the diagonal line extending from d. The points 1 and 2are connected by a straight line and then slightly curved as shown togive t-he shoulder seam. rThe neck curve line 9 is then drawn from thepoint 1 to the main line at a distance above A equal to the seamallowance. This completes the drafting of the back.

ln drafting the front the point H is first to be ascertained. This islaid otf on the horizontal line from D a distance equal to one half thebreast length plus two and one half inches, the additional being madefor the seams and comfort. A perpendicular line is then dropped from thepoint H and the points M, N and BZ) located at the intersection of thisline with the lines drawn from the points E, n and B. One half of thegirth at the line n (19 inches) plus three inches is measured off to theleft of the point N, and a point Nn marked for the side seam of thefront at a distance from the point N equal to the above measurementinches) less the dist-ance from e to Ee. A straight line is drawnthrough the lpoints and N/n,

and the side seam is laid oif with relation to` this line according tothe style desired, in this instance a little is subtracted from thewidth at the waist line and little added at the bottom line. To theiight of the vertical line from H an allowance of one and one halfinches is made for lap.

The line D-H is scye body line, and the correct points for laying outthe pattern above this line are now to be ascertained. To obtain thecorrect location of the front of scye, the point G is located on theline D H by means of the scale G-cZ on the square, the zero mark of thescale being placed at l and the point Gr marked at 19. From Gr avertical line is drawn which locates the most forward portion of the armhole curve. The sca-le G-v is then placed with the zero at G and thepoint 7c marked at 19 on the scale. From the point f: a perpendicular isVdrawn upwardly beyond the line extending through A-AA. The scale C-/cis then placed on the line extending upwardly from 7c with a division17% of the waist length portion 10 on the point and the division 19 onthe breast portion 11 determines the point C. From C downwardly ismarked a point K equal tothe distance from A to Aa. The scale c-J 'isthen placed with the waist length division 17%V at le and a. point Jmarked at the breast division 19. From point J a perpendicular is drawnto the left and a point z' is located in said line at a distance fromthe point O equal to the distance between the points 1 and 2 less i ofan inch. One fourth of an inch to the right of ff is located a point 5,and the arm hole curve is drawn from the point z' to the point 5 tangentto the scye body line and the vertical line from Gr. A curved line isthen drawn from .C to i for the shoulder seam. The scale G-V is thenplaced with the zero at Gr and the point V is marked at 19. Aperpendicular is extended upwardly from V and a horizontal from thepoint K and the intersection of these lines determines the point L atthe front of the neck curve. At the intersection of the scye body lineand the side seam is marked a point t which must fall upon the point 3when the parts are put together.

The remaining lines of the pattern may then be drawn from point topoint.

It will be noted that the scales fz-F, A-D and c-J have reductions inthe sizes of the divisions beyond certain points to prevent the garmentbecoming misshapened when the various measures taken are abnormal.

Having described my invention what I claim as new and desire to secureby Letters Patent is:

l. A tailors square having a plurality of scales thereon arranged inpairs, one scale of each pair being graduated in terms of the breastmeasure and the other graduated in terms of the waist length, the scalesof each pair being used together to ascertain various measurements inlength in the laying out of patterns, substantially as described.

2. A square having a plurality of scales thereon graduated in terms ofthe breast measure, waist measure and waist length measure and saidscales varying in size of graduations, but having the same figures ofdesignation of the said measures, and symbols adjacent said scalescorresponding to certain measurements to indicate which scale or scalesare to be used to ascertain the various lines and points necessary inlaying out a pattern, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in thepresence of two subscribing witnesses.

JOHN BAUERNFEIND.

Witnesses:

VINCENT A. Hinscrr, HERMAN A. MAURER.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for ve cents each, by addressingthe Commissioner of Patents, Washington, '.D. C.

